Back in one version of my former corporate life, I had a tell that alerted my team to the mood they might be walking into. Always a fan of a natural makeup look, AND equally a fan of a bold red lip, the intensity of my lipstick became a call sign for how my day was going.
Oblivious and unintentional, I now think the red lip for me, was a sort of armor. An outward display of confidence, meant to distract the viewer and often used in big meetings or presentations when I felt anything but confident. Maybe, I thought, if they got distracted by my lips - the words spilling out would land their intended point.
a glimpse of professional red-lipped me circa 2017, shot by the amazing Coliena Rentmeester
Many years, and many lipsticks later, I’ve shied away from a bold red lip - but Garance Dore’s recent round-up of the most amazing shades, and I’m considering a return.
Curious as to the origin story of the red lip, and if my attraction to it as a confidence booster held merit - down a rabbit hole of research I went.
The red lip debuted in 3500 B.C. by Queen Puabi of Mesopotamia stained her lips red as a symbol of power. From there and throughout history, it has taken many forms and meanings. At various points in history the red lip has been viewed as everything from a sign of wealth and power, to an outward signal that you were a sex worker, and even signifying that you were a witch trying to trick a man into marriage - for which you could be put to death.
Actress Constance Ford photographed by Philippe Halsman 1941
In the 20th century, the obsession with the red lip took on new meaning - still viewed as a nod of beauty and power, but also as an indication of resistance, of female empowerment and even became a calling card of the suffragettes. Elizabeth Arden inspired women to don a red lip as a badge of courage, first distributing lipstick tubes to suffragettes in 1912.
During World War II, red lipstick was widely viewed as a symbol of patriotism and female empowerment. Wearing it was seen as a way to support our troops, and to show strength and resilience. Makeup brands took note and began naming shades to reflect this sentiment - “Victory Red” matched the red piping on women’s military uniforms. Hitler is especially said to have hated the color, giving women all the more reason to love and wear this bold shade.
In the 1970s, as the feminist movement gained momentum, the red lip fell out of favor for a short time. It was viewed as patriarchal oppression, and many women stopped wearing makeup all together to make their power known. Luckily, that trend didn’t last and the classic red lip returned, bigger and better.
Today, thanks to Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Taylor Swift, Tracee Ellis Ross, Chappel Roan, and the viral red lip theory - you literally can’t turn your head without being inspired by this eye-catching hue.
Who knew a pigment held such power? As a lover of color AND story - seems like the write time to revisit this strong shade. A little boost of confidence, brightness and beauty? Sign me up. Especially as I’m busy calling my elected representatives to make sure my voice is heard.
A few of my favorite clean ingredient reds if you too need a little something lovely for the month ahead.
Clockwise starting from top left : Jones Road Ruby, Ilia Balmy Tint Hydrating Lip Balm in Hearbeats, Glossier Ultralip in Cranberry, Olio e Osso Persimmon Balm.
xx.
Love this, Jill! My paternal grandmother saw red lipstick as a sign you were definitely a whore. While my maternal grandmother loved her red lipstick and painted pink fingernails.
Hi hi corporate Jill :) I always loved (and love) your bold red lip. I too don it for bravery when I need it most. This history lesson was everything I needed today. Love Olio e Osso!